Wednesday, 16 December 2009
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Wednesday, 2 December 2009
Saturday, 28 November 2009
This trend has a fairly simplistic palette which creates a canvas for detailing in the structure and texture of garments. Greyish purples, as mentioned, allude to luxury, but also create an otherworldliness in their hazy tones. Deep dark red adds intensity and allure, whilst black punctuates. Overall the palette offers softened masculinity.
The influence of intricate detail and pattern is evidently strong within the trend. The spindly branches of the tree could be translated to filigree-like embellishment or winding patterning within the knit created by Fair Isle design. Lace-like knit could create radical designs meant to be layered, or be employed to trim necklines and cuffs with subtle but attractive detail. Texture implied by the image composed of bead-like units could be achieved through unusual incorporation of moss stitch and differently proportioned rib. Garment shapes could range from close-fitting roll necks to oversized jumpers and cardigans in a relatively fine gauge knit for layering to individualise the look.
This trend is suitable for a man who appreciates detail that is used to enhance design and is looking for luxury. Although elements of this trend are not entirely compatible, I would say overall this trend would be suited to Reiss. There is an emphasis on sumptuous texture which is ideal, and fine detail executed in subtlety which would create timelessly stylish pieces that are highly desirable to the Reiss customer.
The colour palette is a variety of muted pinks and blues which are also mixed to provide heather tones of mauve and muddy purples, purple being a colour often associated with wealth and luxury. Earthy greens and browns are also present and reference the masculinity of the trend. They combine in fabrics to offer complementary warm checks, luxurious silks and dapper outerwear.
The clothes for this look demand tailoring. They should define broad shoulders above a narrow waist. Long jackets offer an elongated masculine body shape and both single and double breasted fronts work as part of this look. Lapels could be accentuated by construction in velvet or satin, referencing tuxedo luxury. Overcoats which are tailored but thigh – length would offer slick style as well as practicality. Shorter coats would also be effective and show a narrow trouser shape. Accessories such as ties, cravats, scarves and gloves of luxurious material in sumptuous designs reflect the trend well and would add opulence. They set off the more traditional lapelled suit with both slip and flap pockets. Waistcoats can add a further layer of tailoring and can be collared to blend in with this look.
The man who takes this look is confident in his position of wealth. He shows self discipline in the restrained colour combinations, but can wear more than one busy feature at a time. He offers an air of refinement and taste, always seeking the best.
Sample of work produced
Trend Research: 'Scarytale' and the city of York.
Trend images from Trendstop.com, collection images from style.com and Vogue.co.uk, York images are my own photographs.
Scarytale presents us with a distorted vision of a child’s fairytale. It is warped, almost to the point of being grotesque but this strangeness inspires shadowy glamour and an ethereal sense of luxury. There is a focus on black magic which suggests trickery and deception; things are not always what they seem so expect the unexpected. Pigs heads atop female bodies and disfigured dolls illustrate the sinister and distorted aesthetic which dominates the trend, but from this twisted fairytale a quirky, unspoken beauty can be drawn. Illustrations of Alice in Wonderland introduce innocence and emphasise the playfulness of this twisted world and its preoccupation with the bizarre. Church graveyards, ghostly woods and ominous birds show the influence of the gothic on this trend. The sense of horror and danger enriches the trend, but instead of playing victim, the woman herself is to be feared. The classic damsel in distress stereotype is abandoned and the woman is an alluring siren empowered within this dark fantasy.
The colour palette includes mystifying blues which have an alien quality. Ghostly tones of grey and green dominate much of the palette. They give a vaporous effect in lightweight translucent fabrics creating an other-worldliness, perhaps suggesting the aura of the wearer. Warmer colours such as rust and ginger add depth. Plum and deep red imbue the type of glamour associated with vampires. These gothic hues come together to provide a dramatic selection that is both moody and mysterious.
The element of distortion central to this trend translates to silhouettes of unusual proportions, which challenge expectations. Voluminous skirts achieved through bubble hems, layering and tiered styles create a dramatic impact which is fitting. Shoulders can be accentuated for an imposing, otherworldly look with sleeves which are manipulated with gathers and padding, or reshaped to take on a squared, boxy structure which looks as if it binds the wearer. Peculiar proportions can also be achieved through very gothic, slim-line, floor length skirts. These elongate the body shape to the extreme and suggest a playful reference to Morticia Adams.
I have included a corresponding trend from Textile View Magazine alongside the Scarytale trend from trendstop.com. It is entitled ‘Dark Romance’, and the name alone echoes the concepts found within Scarytale. Dark Romance has the same focus on the gothic look; black dominates and textures such as lace, ‘spider web knits’ and jacquards are suggested which add rich detail but also suggest mystery in their subtlety.
Scarytale is for a woman who embraces individuality and is not afraid to go against the norm. The bizarre aesthetic this trend strives towards belongs to a playful character who is also sophisticated enough for the luxe glamour it inspires. I therefore think Scarytale is well suited to Reiss and its target market. Its slick and sleek identity would take on this gothic twist well for a contemporary and exciting range. The sumptuousness of this mystifying and bizarre inspiration suggests female empowerment which suits the confident and strong woman Reiss caters to.
Design work: Focus on women's coats and jackets.