Research: Gathred, Pleated and Circle Skirts and Dresses

Research: Casual Outerwear

Research: Raglan Sleeve

Research: Interesting Sleeves

Research: Rever Collar

Research: Fitted and Bra-front Dresses

Research: Hoods

Istanbul Project - Final Collection

Figures drawn in Lectra Kaledo Style. Prints Inserted from Lectra Kaledo Print. Background created in Adobe Photoshop. Presentation completed in Adobe Illustrator.

Istanbul Project - Garment Designs

Designs drawn using Lectra Kaledo Style on the computer.

Istanbul Project - Generating Print Designs

Patterns generated using Lectra Kaledo Print on the computer. I have presented 3 colourways for each design.

Istanbul Project - Colour Palette

Brief: to design a womenswear collection using Lectra Kaledo style and Print. For my project I chose the theme of Istanbul, focusing on architecture, and the retailer Zara, who often look to ethnic influences for their collections.

Final Collection - Converge for Comme des Garcons A/W 2010/2011 Flat Boards

Technical Flat Boards

Hand drawn flats presented with colour tabs and descriptions in Adobe Photoshop.

Final Collection - Converge for Comme des Garcons A/W 2010/2011

Hand drawn figures. Colour applied in Adobe Photoshop.

Mood Board - Converge.

Collaboration with Farah Hussain. Presentation by Farah Hussain.

A/W 2010/2011 Trend Research - WGSN

Trend Images from WGSN.com, Catwalk images gfrom vogue.co.uk.

Comme des Garcons Shop/Brand Research

Comme des Garcons Customer Profile

Collaboration with Farah Hussain. Presentation by Farah Hussain.

Garment Research

Research into different garments, styles, shapes, fabrics and different decorative techniques. Completed in June 2009.

All Saints Window Display, Victoria Quarter, Leeds

Reiss Autumn/Winter 09/10 - Knitwear

Design Project, University of Leeds

Sample of work completed.

Trend Research: 'Nighthawk' and the city of York.

Trend images from Textile View magazine, collection imgaes from Vogue.co.uk, York images are my own photographs.

Nighthawk Analysis:

There is a slightly gothic but modern look to this men’s knitwear trend from Textile View Magazine. The haunted image of a tree is lifeless and isolated; its lack of leaves and colour creates bleakness but also mystery and the winding branches create interesting forms. There is a dominance of purple tones which allude to wealth and opulence, and the intricate lace knit adds a refined delicacy. The lustre and drape of the velvet pictured imbues a sense of luxury, and the suggestion of plush and velour yarns incorporates this.
This trend has a fairly simplistic palette which creates a canvas for detailing in the structure and texture of garments. Greyish purples, as mentioned, allude to luxury, but also create an otherworldliness in their hazy tones. Deep dark red adds intensity and allure, whilst black punctuates. Overall the palette offers softened masculinity.
The influence of intricate detail and pattern is evidently strong within the trend. The spindly branches of the tree could be translated to filigree-like embellishment or winding patterning within the knit created by Fair Isle design. Lace-like knit could create radical designs meant to be layered, or be employed to trim necklines and cuffs with subtle but attractive detail. Texture implied by the image composed of bead-like units could be achieved through unusual incorporation of moss stitch and differently proportioned rib. Garment shapes could range from close-fitting roll necks to oversized jumpers and cardigans in a relatively fine gauge knit for layering to individualise the look.
This trend is suitable for a man who appreciates detail that is used to enhance design and is looking for luxury. Although elements of this trend are not entirely compatible, I would say overall this trend would be suited to Reiss. There is an emphasis on sumptuous texture which is ideal, and fine detail executed in subtlety which would create timelessly stylish pieces that are highly desirable to the Reiss customer.

Design Work: Focus mens knitwear.

Reiss Autumn/Winter 09/10 - Menswear

Design Project, University of Leeds.

Selection of Work Completed.

Trend Research: 'Southern Comfort' and the city of York.

Trend images from Trendstop.com, collection images from Vogue.co.uk, York images are my own photographs.

Southern Comfort Analysis:

Southern Comfort has a suave and sophisticated aesthetic which gives the modern man a traditional re-styling. The ‘Southern Gentleman’ theme calls for opulence and grandeur and the images for this trend reveal a confidence with wealth and power. The attention to the fine things of life, such as silk and lace are less about affectations and more of a declaration of sophistication and knowledge of the world. They are a display of wealth which exudes confidence and masculine charm. They show a gracious geniality, both courteous and charming. However, underneath there is all the nobility, grit and tenacity admired by male and female alike. The Southern gentleman is seeking the aristocratic status of the traditional European upper class with its apparent ease of manner and its comfort with expensive and luxurious fabrics. However it delivers a modern twist which is more playful and colourful, free from the rigours of years of tradition that hamper innovation.
The colour palette is a variety of muted pinks and blues which are also mixed to provide heather tones of mauve and muddy purples, purple being a colour often associated with wealth and luxury. Earthy greens and browns are also present and reference the masculinity of the trend. They combine in fabrics to offer complementary warm checks, luxurious silks and dapper outerwear.
The clothes for this look demand tailoring. They should define broad shoulders above a narrow waist. Long jackets offer an elongated masculine body shape and both single and double breasted fronts work as part of this look. Lapels could be accentuated by construction in velvet or satin, referencing tuxedo luxury. Overcoats which are tailored but thigh – length would offer slick style as well as practicality. Shorter coats would also be effective and show a narrow trouser shape. Accessories such as ties, cravats, scarves and gloves of luxurious material in sumptuous designs reflect the trend well and would add opulence. They set off the more traditional lapelled suit with both slip and flap pockets. Waistcoats can add a further layer of tailoring and can be collared to blend in with this look.
The man who takes this look is confident in his position of wealth. He shows self discipline in the restrained colour combinations, but can wear more than one busy feature at a time. He offers an air of refinement and taste, always seeking the best.

Design Work: Focus on men's shirts.

Reiss Autumn/Winter 09/10 - Womenswear

Design Project: University of Leeds
Sample of work produced

Trend Research: 'Scarytale' and the city of York.

Trend images from Trendstop.com, collection images from style.com and Vogue.co.uk, York images are my own photographs.

Scarytale Analysis:

Scarytale presents us with a distorted vision of a child’s fairytale. It is warped, almost to the point of being grotesque but this strangeness inspires shadowy glamour and an ethereal sense of luxury. There is a focus on black magic which suggests trickery and deception; things are not always what they seem so expect the unexpected. Pigs heads atop female bodies and disfigured dolls illustrate the sinister and distorted aesthetic which dominates the trend, but from this twisted fairytale a quirky, unspoken beauty can be drawn. Illustrations of Alice in Wonderland introduce innocence and emphasise the playfulness of this twisted world and its preoccupation with the bizarre. Church graveyards, ghostly woods and ominous birds show the influence of the gothic on this trend. The sense of horror and danger enriches the trend, but instead of playing victim, the woman herself is to be feared. The classic damsel in distress stereotype is abandoned and the woman is an alluring siren empowered within this dark fantasy.
The colour palette includes mystifying blues which have an alien quality. Ghostly tones of grey and green dominate much of the palette. They give a vaporous effect in lightweight translucent fabrics creating an other-worldliness, perhaps suggesting the aura of the wearer. Warmer colours such as rust and ginger add depth. Plum and deep red imbue the type of glamour associated with vampires. These gothic hues come together to provide a dramatic selection that is both moody and mysterious.
The element of distortion central to this trend translates to silhouettes of unusual proportions, which challenge expectations. Voluminous skirts achieved through bubble hems, layering and tiered styles create a dramatic impact which is fitting. Shoulders can be accentuated for an imposing, otherworldly look with sleeves which are manipulated with gathers and padding, or reshaped to take on a squared, boxy structure which looks as if it binds the wearer. Peculiar proportions can also be achieved through very gothic, slim-line, floor length skirts. These elongate the body shape to the extreme and suggest a playful reference to Morticia Adams.
I have included a corresponding trend from Textile View Magazine alongside the Scarytale trend from trendstop.com. It is entitled ‘Dark Romance’, and the name alone echoes the concepts found within Scarytale. Dark Romance has the same focus on the gothic look; black dominates and textures such as lace, ‘spider web knits’ and jacquards are suggested which add rich detail but also suggest mystery in their subtlety.
Scarytale is for a woman who embraces individuality and is not afraid to go against the norm. The bizarre aesthetic this trend strives towards belongs to a playful character who is also sophisticated enough for the luxe glamour it inspires. I therefore think Scarytale is well suited to Reiss and its target market. Its slick and sleek identity would take on this gothic twist well for a contemporary and exciting range. The sumptuousness of this mystifying and bizarre inspiration suggests female empowerment which suits the confident and strong woman Reiss caters to.

Design work: Focus on women's coats and jackets.