Saturday, 28 November 2009

Reiss Autumn/Winter 09/10 - Menswear

Design Project, University of Leeds.
Selection of Work Completed.

Trend Research: 'Southern Comfort' and the city of York.

Trend images from, collection images from, York images are my own photographs.

Southern Comfort Analysis:
Southern Comfort has a suave and sophisticated aesthetic which gives the modern man a traditional re-styling. The ‘Southern Gentleman’ theme calls for opulence and grandeur and the images for this trend reveal a confidence with wealth and power. The attention to the fine things of life, such as silk and lace are less about affectations and more of a declaration of sophistication and knowledge of the world. They are a display of wealth which exudes confidence and masculine charm. They show a gracious geniality, both courteous and charming. However, underneath there is all the nobility, grit and tenacity admired by male and female alike. The Southern gentleman is seeking the aristocratic status of the traditional European upper class with its apparent ease of manner and its comfort with expensive and luxurious fabrics. However it delivers a modern twist which is more playful and colourful, free from the rigours of years of tradition that hamper innovation.
The colour palette is a variety of muted pinks and blues which are also mixed to provide heather tones of mauve and muddy purples, purple being a colour often associated with wealth and luxury. Earthy greens and browns are also present and reference the masculinity of the trend. They combine in fabrics to offer complementary warm checks, luxurious silks and dapper outerwear.
The clothes for this look demand tailoring. They should define broad shoulders above a narrow waist. Long jackets offer an elongated masculine body shape and both single and double breasted fronts work as part of this look. Lapels could be accentuated by construction in velvet or satin, referencing tuxedo luxury. Overcoats which are tailored but thigh – length would offer slick style as well as practicality. Shorter coats would also be effective and show a narrow trouser shape. Accessories such as ties, cravats, scarves and gloves of luxurious material in sumptuous designs reflect the trend well and would add opulence. They set off the more traditional lapelled suit with both slip and flap pockets. Waistcoats can add a further layer of tailoring and can be collared to blend in with this look.
The man who takes this look is confident in his position of wealth. He shows self discipline in the restrained colour combinations, but can wear more than one busy feature at a time. He offers an air of refinement and taste, always seeking the best.
Design Work: Focus on men's shirts.

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